Global Practicum Melnik - Day 3

 March 25, 2026

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Leaving Kavala was bittersweet. Many of us felt it was too short a stay, yet we also wanted to see what was next in store for us as we ventured towards Melnik. The day was gorgeous. We could finally see the landscapes of Bulgaria - the rolling hills and far off mountains. Throughout the trip, you can also see the variety of homes both built and lived in and abandoned throughout the country side. The sites were beautiful and also devastating at times. 

As we approached Melnik, the roads grew a little more narrow until we approached a narrow road, meant for on only a vehicle, that weaved through a small establishment where people lived and worked. Our tour bus, driven by the most talented driver I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know, was able to squeeze through this narrow passage way carefully but expertly. Once past this narrow passage, we ventured up through the mountain towards the Melnik pyramids and Rozhen Monastery. This humble monastery had deep brown woods with white painted bricks that protected a courtyard of green grass embedded with stones throughout its walkways with the quaint church at its center. 

The grounds had various plants, flowers, and trees throughout the interior and had two lovely cats that welcomed us to its grounds. 

Inside the church, you walk into a chamber where the temperature is noticeable lower than the outside. Here you can light a candle for your loved ones, similar to the cathedral in Sofia, and donate money to the monastery. Once inside the church, Bulgarian culture, history and religious worship adorns every aspect from the frescoes on the walls, the traditional chandelier, the seating and prayer chambers. 

I stole a few pictures of the interior to remember how elaborately detailed these historically significant sites can be. After taking in the Monastery I strolled out to take in the beautiful landscapes of Melnik, the pyramids, as the Melnik call it, and the vast openness of the lands before me. Just down the street, within walking distance of the

Monastery stood a small church, the Church of the Holy virgin said to have frescoes from the 16th-18th century.  We departed towards the village of Melnik, with inhabitants less than 400 people total. As we approached the small town, the roads became dirt and our hotel was at the mouth of the village on a path leading up. Hotel Melnik is a beautiful structure boasting similar architecture of the deep brown woods and white painted walls. Contemporary things like elevators won’t be found in this small village so be prepared to walk, climb stairs, and have uneven pathways. Besides the physicality required to navigate through this town, it is quite the site to see. Breathtaking hills, beautiful architecture, delicious foods, and a history that is rich with wine merchants and various cultures that came through this small town. 

After we grabbed our room keys and dropped off our luggage, we were set to meet at the Bistro Melnik. It was a gorgeous day, with blue skies (clouds were rolling in but the sun was still shining), and the temperature was perfect. A group of us wanted to sit outside while half the group opted sit indoors. I partook in the fresh air and the company. Leo and I decided to share a meal because the server mentioned it was good enough for two people, so we go the veal satch. Josh ordered the lamb satch and for the table we ordered the fries which was topped with shredded feta. I’ve never had feta like this, and the fries were some of the best I’ve ever had. When our meal came out, the clay pans were sizzling allowing us to take in the aromas as it was being brought to our table. We shared or meals with the table since it was much larger than I expected and it was at this table that I realized I loved satch. I wish we had more Bulgarian cuisine in the US  because this is what I would order regularly.  We were running late to the tour of the Kordopulov house, a large Bulgarian home build in 1754 that reflects what life was like in this century. It boasted a basement wine cellar where you can partake in wine tasting. 

The home was exquisite and had a number nooks hidden behind walls and on the roof was an accurate sun dial and a lovely little calico cat that was one of the friendliest cats I’ve encountered on this trip. All she wanted was some scratches and love and I was happy to oblige her.

While on the rooftop, we noticed a staircase and a building on top of the mountain across from us. While we finished our wine tasting and the tour of the dark dank wine cellar, I overheard Dr. Bieri ask if there were others that were interested in a hike. 

I’m always up for a hike, but it may not sound like I do if you’re the person with me while we hike. Because of my asthma I am a mouth breather and I’ll sound like I’m dying, but really enjoy the challenge. It means I’m not dying 😊. All in all, there were eight of us, our two tour guides who led us to the path where we can see the historical sites of Saint Nicola Church and Despot Slavova Fortress, Dr. Bieri, and five students. Two of us were more than prepared either with the right shoes or the right training 😂. Thank goodness because there was a patch of the hike that was steep and slick and my shoes were not hiking shoes. On the way down, I hear Leo call my name which halted me in my tracks. The gentleman that he is, he told me to hold on because I didn’t have the right shoes and it was unsafe for me. He was right. I felt much better with him ahead of me. As we were heading down the slope, I hear Ismael coming down quickly and then slowing as he approaches Leo and I while he’s also coaching me on the best way to descend the slope. Clearly I was not bending my nears or moving my feet in a zipzag pattern. I wasn’t ready for that, so slowly in a linear way, I continued down the path to stable ground with Leo’s help. It was a lovely hike. One I would like to do again if I’m lucky enough to do it in this lifetime. If not, at least I have photos to remember the experience. Melnik is a town that has captured my heart. Rich with history, delicious foods, hikes and a quiet life that one could only dream of. 

 

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